Marauder champion (Avatars of War). Step-by-step.

 

 

 This Marauder champion was born in the "gym" again but now I was a student and I had a teacher - Landreth. I wanted to try out a dark and bloody style, so Artem agreed to be my guide in this world. Detailed step by step process of learning can be found on the Russian Alternative forum, and there is an English version avialable to meet a wider audience. There you can read the exact recipe and techniques that Landreth gave for this miniature and you can see a brutal Marauder, which was born from his arms. Here I will talk about how I pained it changing the recipes for my existing arsenal of colors, and that came out of it :).

Preparation.

The grim job - black ground :). I planned snow, blood splatter and icicles on the base.
So, the composition are ready for primer:

  

Skin.

1. Base: VMC Carmine red + VMC Flat green
2. Highlights 1: VMC Flat green + VMC Orange brown + quite a bit VMC Carmine red. The base color is only in the shadows.
3. Highlights 2: previous mix + VMA Middlestone *.
4. Shadows 1: in the darkest places a mix of black + VMC Turquoise.
5. Highlights 3: VMC Orange brown + VMA Middlestone *. The most salient points VMC Tan Yellow.
6. Shadows 2: semi-transparent layer VMC Burnt Cad. Red.

  * - Landreth used VMS Middlestone instead VMA Middlestone . I did not buy the recommended paint and used the one that was. This was my mistake. These paints are not equal. VMA Middlestone gave me a green tint, which I have not been able to get rid of. VMS Middlestone more yellow, and the skin on the teacher's miniature get a natural color.

Veins: VMC Orange Brown + VMC Turquoise, then pure VMC Tan yellow, at the end  - a mix of Tan yellow and VMC Sunny skintone.

 

Metal.

For steel parts:
1. Base: VMA Steel.
2. Glazing: GW Leviathan purple (wash) + Vallejo Wash Fleshtone shade.
3. In the shadows - spots VMA Gun metalizer, on highlighted places - spots VMA Steel. The process of glazing and restoration metallics continues to create the desired texture.
4. Shadows with diluted black paint.
5. Scratches VMA Steel
6. Applying patches dry and diluted pigment Vallejo Burnt sienna, Forge world Aged dust etc.
7. some rust with VMC Vermillion
8. Final highlights VMA Steel
 

For gold pieces:
VMC Old gold, then pouring as in steel, highlights VMC Old gold + VMA Steel to clean glare VMA Steel.

The result of steps 1-5:

 

The next steps:

Skirt and shield.

At the beginning I  painted the skirt  in red-brown. It seemed to me that it lost in a reddish steel.
Then I decided to make it in bluish-green tones.

   But I didn't like this variant. Keep thewarm tones, the skirt went yellow.
   For this skirt and shield I used colors (from light to dark): VMC Ochre brown, VMC Orange brown sometimes with the addition of VMC Burnt Cad. Red, GW Scorched brown, in the deep shadows + blue.
   Landreth told me about the technique of painting "spots" - sometimes it's called pointillism. All layers except the basic, are applied by spots of  liquid paint. The new layer is applied after drying of the previous. So we create a spotty texture.

   Metal on board is made with the scheme written above.

 

 Details.

  Belts. After a few tries I stoped on the black color with the addition of a brown tint. 
  Head on his belt: I used GW Catachan green + GW Rooting flesh for base colors.
  Sheath and axe: metallic, similar to steel and gold. Plus some places pouring VMC Torquoise.

 

Blood.

 Landreth recommended me to use vitrail paint for it. I bought the red and black stained glass paint Pebeo. Actually, all blood was sticked with a mix of two this paints.

 

Base.

   Well, and a few words about the base. I used a tutorials from Massive Voodoo about snow and icicles. I used baking soda, PVA glue for snow, transparent plastic for icicles, did  some shadows in the bushes with VMC Torquoise by airbrush.

 

 

 

 

So my work has done!